when do you use sophisticated math calculations?

i have the obvious calculations down (pair over pair = 80/20, flush draw by river = 3.5ish:1, bet size to take away draws, etc). its the "fancier" ones i dont take the time to calculate, but sometimes should...or just dont know how.

like...i have a flush draw w/ a gutshot (AsTs to a flop of Ks Js 8d), villain's range is 88+, QXs, 9To, etc)...how do i caluculate my EV, or FE?

or...i have overpair to low board (9s9d to 2d 6d 7s)... now how do i figure my percentages against villain's TT+ or OE draw (one i beat, the other i do not).

please nobody go nuts calculating these situations, as they are fictional and off the top of my head. meaning, if they did come up, they may not even be worth calculating at the time. just examples of difficult calcs to make in a 15-30 sec window.

thats the challenge...there are a few cases where a "pro" will come across some microscopically small edge that he finds through multiple calcs of FE, EV, odds, implied odds, etc. and, these guys crank off some wierd idea of whether they are ahead or behind, or if they should bet the "FE" or check/raise, check and hope to gain free card, or how to calculate their equity in the pot. again, this may be too much TV, but i am led to believe some "pros" are human calculators, and sometimes it would be nice to know when you need to stop and think "fancy math."

i seem to "go with my gut" a lot, and sometimes its right, and others its not. cant help but think "situational math" helps...

but when to use it?

use pokerstove.

If you havent got it google it and download.

Its basically a good program to help calculate your ev.

For example, you have AA on a low board that contains 4toaflush. You bet opp pushes all in after you made a standard preflop raise in mp and the button called.
Hence you input your hand the board and opps range and simply calculate of you have the pot odds/ev versus opps supposed range to call (assuming opp is not a nit only pushing a set here)

Ive inputted a lot of what are now 'standard' situations versus different players into it and calculated where i should be making calls and where i should not.

I've actually, since reading the book, looked at TAggs C-bet% alot more now. If a 18/10 or so Cbets 65%+ I reraise him usually when the board seemingly missed his tighter range. He'll then tell you his hand. 3Bets are AA,KK some QQ or a set. Anything like a missed AK, AQ or PP and he's usually out. Either way, the hand usually ends there for me. That's as far as my limited skills will take me. Pretty much the same with any AGGressive players that have the same stat.

Along the same lines, with C-betting my hands. If someoone is folding to C-bets in the+50% range I wil tend to bet My TP hands to see where he is at. But if he's folding -50% I may check to see where he wants to go with the hand, and reevaluate.

this program sounds really cool.
really need a windows computer that will allow me to make use of pokerstove and pokertracker/office

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trainer_jyms

Along the same lines, with C-betting my hands. If someoone is folding to C-bets in the+50% range I wil tend to bet My TP hands to see where he is at. But if he's folding -50% I may check to see where he wants to go with the hand, and reevaluate.

---

This seems backwards to me. Shouldnt we be value betting our hands more often against an opponent that will come them more often? I think you are putting way too much importance on this "information" and need to be placing more on getting value out of your hands.