6 max open ranges

Hi everyone i've been trying to work on some basic 6 max hand open ranges and came up with the following , is there any adjustments anyone would make to this . I was playing 15% utg 20% mp 25% co and 305 btn before but i feel those ranges needed adjusting as i'm going back to basics and re working my game.

Thanks very much.



UTG 8%

55+,AJs+,KQs,AQo+,KQo


MP 12%

22+,ATs+,KTs+,QTs+,JTs,AJo+,KQo


co 22%

22+,A2s+,K9s+,Q9s+,J9s+,T9s,98s,87s,76s,ATo+,KTo+, QTo+,JTo


btn / sb 40%

22+,A2s+,K6s+,Q8s+,J8s+,T8s+,97s+,86s+,75s+,65s,54 s,A2o+,K9o+,Q9o+,J9o+,T9o,98o,87o,76o

I will add my thoughts for the general discussion, though I suspect that OP already knows my opinions.

UTG: I would get rid of {77-55} and add { ATs,KJs,QJs,JTs }
{ 88+,ATs+,KJs+,QJs,JTs,AQo+,KQo }

This gives your range much more playability for being OOP. You will flop more draws and stronger pairs with the suited broadways, while avoiding the problem of being bluffed off the best hand when your low pairs miss the flop. Being OOP severely hurts your ability to make money off PP.


MP: I would get rid of {55-22} and add {A5-A2,ATo}... and I'm being generous to your style by leaving the 66 in.
{ 66+,ATs+,A5s-A2s,KTs+,QTs+,JTs,ATo+,KQo }

I can see leaving out the {A5-A2} and using {KJo,QJo}, these hands are equally troublesome. I prefer the flush draws and wheel draws from the small suited ace hands.


CO: The only problem I see with your range is that it's too tight.
I'd bring the CO range up to ~28% by adding {T8s,97s,76s,65s,54s,J9o,T8o+,98o}
{ 22+, A2s+, K9s+, Q9s+, J9s+, T8s+, 97s+, 87s, 76s, 65s, 54s, ATo+, KTo+, QTo+, J9o+, T8o+, 98o }


BTN: Looks fine. My changes are purely style-based. I prefer to hunt flushes on A-high boards w/ suited king hands. I don't like playing K9o,Q9o because they're almost always dominated when they hit a pair IP. I like suited 2-gappers for catching deceptive straights.


You are probably way too wide with your steals from the SB. SB is more like CO than BTN. CO you may be OOP to BTN if they call. On SB, you will be OOP to BB if they call. It's all about your relative position being almost the same in SB and CO that dictates your range.

And how about the sizing prelfop?

Assuming deep stack poker (~100BB+) and micro-stakes rake:
4x + 1 for each limper

IF there are no limpers, then:
3x if I'm on the BTN

SB really depends on which kind of bad the BB is. If they 3-bet heavy, I'll resort to a min-raise/call with my opens as a bit of pot control. If they call too wide, then I'll 3x it, usually.
Now that I think of it, I do this from the BTN, too. If the blinds have decided that all blind steals should be pre-flop wars, then I will start to min-raise and call wide. They're playing nearly 100% of hands and I'm still playing ~40%. I can play IP post flop and really clean them up.

***
The following is just something to think about. I wouldn't consider this a long-term winning strategy, but an easy adjustment to a villain who's not responding to your SB steals.

Actually, I find that just mashing min-raise against some BB's is so +EV that my range will open up a ton and I'll steal his 1 blind for virtually no risk. I mean... if he lets me min-raise and take it at least 2 times for every time he plays... then I break even if I just fold to his 33% range post flop. Thing is, he's probably playing tighter than 33%, and I'm gonna hit some monsters from time to time.

It's not generally +EV play to be timid post, but remember that Villain's range is declared as stronger than Hero's. Hero is OOP. The profit that Hero is printing PRE can be easily burned with ill-advised bluffs post-flop.

Remember that this is an adjustment and not the starting point.

I don't mind your ranges. I like Mojo's suggestions.

Allow yourself to be a bit flexible. If you have looser players IP on you, such that you don't have much cbet fold equity on the flop, then I might cut out the worst part of my ranges.

If you have loose players in the blinds (and tighter players IP on you), I would widen my ranges from each position.