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 Originally Posted by Cavalry21
AoK,
I wasn't trying to question your style, as much as understand it. This is one of my problems as well. I guess I was asking more what you mean by getting active, and playing anything but monsters.
Good question. Here's what I mean when I talk about active play vs camping.
Active play is playing in alot of hands (whether with strength or without) this includes making pure "position" plays and "chip moves". A position play is going AI or raising big from the button with Ax or KT against the blinds, hoping the blinds will fold. Chip moves means coming over the top of someone who you think is weak even though you're weaker. In both those situations you do not want to see a flop or a showdown. If they give you resistance then you're probably beat. Generally when you're #1 goal is to get the other guy to fold because if he doesn't you're in trouble, then you're being "Active". The more trouble you'll be in if he calls you preflop, the more active you're being. AT is an active play when you raise it up. If you get called by AK, AQ or any pair then you're hoping from some bigtime help. If you get reraised preflop then you're probably laying it down. It's not a bad active play from say the button, but it is "active". I went AI over the top of a big raise with 83. That's a very "active" play. There are situations where playing AK is an Active Play. If you have 10k chips and someone with 8k chips goes AI in front of you, then calling that is VERY ACTIVE. If you have a choice of giving up a relatively little blind or calling in this situation, you need to decide if you NEED to gamble at this point.
Active vs non-active play is about Need. Do I "Need" to be involved in this pot at this time for this amount of chips? That's the question you have to answer correctly throughout a tournament. And there are two reasons why you should not be involved. #1 the chip amounts are too few relative to your stack. (such as making a move for the blinds). #2 the chips are too many relative to your stack and your read. (any under pair vs AK is a coinflip, do you need to coinflip at this point?)
Another form of active play is trying to buy pots post flop when your hand is missed. Depending on the situation or whatever it may be the right move, but it's active. You're hoping to buy the pot right there or improve with only 2 cards to come if you face resistence.
OK, so that's active play.
The opposite is "camping". When you camp you're folding everything but AA, KK, AK, QQ.... When you get down to middle pairs AT, etc you're playing them either not at all (based on the action) or much more cautiously. If you think you're beat (A flops when you have QQ), etc. then you're yielding. The goal here is stack conservation and buying time with your chips vs. buying chips with your chips with active play. You're not pushing over the top of a perceived weak hand just because you think it's weak and might fold. You're risking less chips, less often unless you have a powerhouse hand.
At any point YOU make the decision on how active you want to be with any given hand. Pacing like I talked about is a framework on how to generally approach how active you should be in general. Again, this doesn't mean you don't pop a little activity in here and there. But we've all see the goober who pushing AI preflop when the blinds are 10/20. He's risking all his chips for 30 chips in return. If he has TT, for instance, he's guaranteeing that he'll only be called by a better hand 9 times out of 10. That's stupid. Let's say, however, that he has 350 chips and the blinds are 100/50, and he's the small stack. At that point he's looking to gain almost 50% in chips if he wins and there's more of a chance that he'll be called by A high or two big cards and will be in a coinflip. Good choice on his part. If he runs into QQ, then that's the breaks.
So, let's say you have 20,000 chips and the blinds are 100/200. You have KQ 1 off the button. The blinds have been playing tight, but they'll call a 3x raise at times. So stealing means you need to come in for 1000 chips. What do you do. Well, right now the blinds are 300 chips, or less than 2% of your stack. What's the point in stealing them? They give you no substantial value, you're going to have to risk 5% of your stack to get them and you may end up being drawn into a hand that will eat up more of your chips as it plays out. Let's say you have that hand on the BB, and the button comes in for a 3x raise. Are you going to call? Go over the top? If you're camping you let the blinds go because there's no harm done and little relative value in making a move.
If, however, you have the same cards with 2000 chips, then the blinds represent 15% of your stack, so there's more reason to push. Or, if you're the one on the BB and you think the button is making a position move on you for 600 chips, then you push over the top for your 1800 remaining chips and get an even bigger relative payoff.
In one instance you let the blind go without a second thought (Camping). In the other you make a very active move to win the hand right there. Both situations involved the same 2 starting cards. But they involved very different strategic play from a game management standpoint.
Alot of times people DON'T know how to pace their game. They play loose with the stack and give it back. Or they play very active to get a stack and then can't turn off the the agression and end up losing it back. Very often people think they are in chip trouble when they really aren't, so they get active (and push a small edge) unnecessarily.
AA is a BIG EDGE. You can push with that all day. A9 is a SMALL EDGE. You're ace may hold up or it may not against say KJ, etc. The point of pacing is to not push small edged unnecessarily. Anytime you see two big stacks face off where one has a middle pair and the other has AKs, who made the mistake? THEY BOTH MADE A HORRIBLE MISTAKE. They were both playing small edges for large chips unnecessarily.
When you see someone with 99 on a small stack go AI against an early raise and 3 callers, he may Not be making a mistake. If he's getting 4 to 1 for his money and looking at quading up, then it's often a smart move.
That's the explanation. I'm not expert on when and how to make moves. That's what I'm working on now. But I know how to pace my play appropriately 90% of the time, which is what the post is about.
Good luck. And feel free to disagree. This is just one opinion of many.
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